Marlinspike Seamanship

Lines are made of natural or synthetic fibers twisted into yarns. The yarns are grouped together in such a way as to form strands. Finally, the strands are twisted, plaited, or braided, in various patterns, to form line.

Line used on vessels is classified in two different ways:

(01) Material used, (02) Size.

Lines are categorized as natural fiber or synthetic fiber. Refer to Table 2-1 for fiber line characteristics. The characteristics of the natural and synthetic fiber lines will be explained further in this Section.

No matter what the line is made of (natural or synthetic), it is measured the same way, by its circumference or distance around the line. This makes it different from wire rope, which is measured by diameter. Depending on its size, the line is placed into one of the following three categories:

[Illustration in the handbook: Table 2-1 — Fiber Line Characteristics]

Strands are twisted to either the right or the left. This twisting is the “lay” of the line. Line may have either a left lay or a right lay depending upon how the strands are twisted together. Line is usually constructed as plain-laid, plaited, and double-braided lines. Figure 2-1 illustrates fiber rope components and construction. The type of construction will depend upon the intended use of the line.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-1 — Fiber Rope Components and Construction]

The following describes line types:

Natural fiber line is made from organic material, specifically, plant fiber. The following describes the various natural fiber lines:

Natural fiber line, usually manila, hemp or sisal, are used for tying off fenders, securing chafing gear, and doing other small projects where line strength is not a major concern. Braided line is most commonly used for signal halyard, heaving lines, and lead lines. Plain-laid line may be used for securing loose gear, fender lines, and fancy work. Do not use natural fiber line as a towline.

Natural fiber line has a lower breaking strength than synthetic fiber line of an equal size, and unlike synthetic line, natural fiber line does not recover after being stretched (elasticity). It is not recommended to be used for load-bearing purposes on boats. Another limitation of natural fiber line is the likelihood of rotting if stowed wet.

A close look at a natural fiber line will reveal that the strands are twisted together. They will have either a right or left lay.

In plain-laid, three strands are twisted together to the right in an alternating pattern. Because of the number of strands, this line is sometimes called “three- strand” line. The yarns making up the strands are laid in the opposite direction of the strands. These are twisted together in the opposite direction to make the line. The direction of the twist determines the lay of the line. In the case of plain-laid lines, the yarns are twisted to the right. They are then twisted together to the left to make the strands. The strands are twisted together to the right to make the line (see Figure 2-1).

Synthetic fiber line is made of inorganic (man-made) materials.

The

characteristics of synthetic fiber line are considerably different from natural fiber line. The differences will vary depending on the type of material from which the line is made. The following identifies the various types of synthetic fiber line used:

The most common types of synthetic line used on Coast Guard boats are nylon and polypropylene. Because of its superior strength and elasticity, nylon is used where the line must bear a load.

When double-braided line is made, the yarns are woven together much like the individual yarns in a piece of cloth are woven. The actual line consists of two hollow braid lines, an inner core and an outer cover. The core is woven into a slack, limp braid from large single yarns. The cover is woven from even larger yarns into a tight braid to cover and compress the core.

Double-braided nylon has two other characteristics that increase its strength, elongation and elasticity. Elongation refers to the stretch of the line and elasticity refers to the ability of the line to recover from elongation. Synthetic line will stretch farther and recover better than natural line. Because of this, synthetic line can absorb the intermittent forces and surges resulting from waves or seas much better than natural fiber line.

While its superior strength makes double-braided nylon line a preferred choice for load bearing, there are disadvantages. Because it will stretch further (elongate) and still recover (elasticity), the snap back potential if the line parts is greater than with natural fiber line. Also, if nylon line is doubled and placed under excessive strain, there is a danger that the deck fittings might fail. If that happens, the line will snap back like a rubber band, bringing the deck fitting with it. Additionally, damage to the engine or deck fittings could occur if the bollard pull is exceeded.

Bollard pull is the point where the static pulling force becomes such that any increase in engine load could lead to damage to the engine or the towing bitt. Never double a line or use a single line that can withstand more pulling force than the bollard pull of the towing bitt.

Yellow-colored polypropylene line is used on Coast Guard boats for life rings and heaving lines.

The advantages to this line are high visibility and flotation.

The main disadvantage of plain-laid polypropylene line is lack of strength compared to nylon line of equal size. Its loose, course weave makes it easy to splice but susceptible to chafing. Aggravating this is polypropylene’s characteristic of deteriorating rapidly when exposed to continuous sunlight. It can, in fact, lose up to 40% of its strength over three months of exposure. For this reason, the line is best kept covered when not in use, and inspected and replaced on a regular basis.

Synthetic line slips much easier than natural line. Because of this, it will slip through deck fittings and will not hold knots as well. Care should be taken when bending synthetic line to an object or to another line to ensure the knot will not slip out. One way to help prevent this is to leave a longer tail on the running or bitter end than with natural fiber line.

When using synthetic lines consider the following:

(01) Synthetic line will slip more easily than natural fiber line. Use caution when paying it or surging it from deck fittings, (02) Beware of slippage when bending synthetic line together or securing, (03) Never stand in a position where exposed to the dangers of snap back if the line parts, (04) Do not double up the line during a towing operation, (05) Keep working surfaces of bitts free of paint and rust, (06) Do not stand in the bight of a line or directly in line with its direction of pull.

To minimize the hazard of being pulled into a deck fitting when a line suddenly surges, ensure all crewmembers stand as far as possible from the equipment. Work the lines with hands at a safe distance from the fittings. This is particularly important during towing operations.

The use of a hot knife is the preferred method for cutting nylon and polypropylene line. Using a hot knife eliminates the need for burning the ends. Commercial electric knives, used by sail makers, are available. Some soldering irons can be fit with blades for cutting line. When cutting the line, the blade or saw should not be forced through the line, as the heat will do the job. The best method is to work from the outside in. First, an incision is made around the circumference of the line, and then a cut is made through the center. Remember, when a piece of rope is cut, it will fray. Always finish the end of the line whether before or immediately after cutting the line.

A periodic inspection of all lines used should be made, paying special attention to the following items:

(01) Aging, (02) Fiber wear, (03) Fiber damage, (04) Chafing, (05) Kinks, (06) Cockles, (07) Cutting, (08) Overloading or shockloading, (09) Rust/foreign materials, (10) Eye splices.

Synthetic double-braided line should not be taken apart for internal inspection. Pay particular attention to black or dark colored lines as their color may hide or mask potential damage.

Aging affects natural fibers more severely than synthetic. Cellulose, the main component in natural fibers will deteriorate with age, getting more brittle and turning yellow or brownish. When bent over bitts or cleats, the fibers easily rupture and break. During bending, line strength may decrease up to five times. Crewmembers can check for aging by opening the lay of the line and noting the color of the interior fibers. In an old line, they will be gray or dark brown. Aging is not a significant problem for nylon line, though it will change its color with age. As stated before though, polypropylene line does deteriorate rapidly when exposed to sunlight.

When natural fiber line is under strain, the friction of the fibers, yarns and strands against each other, causes internal wear. Also, internal wear is a good indication of aging. Upon opening the lay of the line, any presence of a white powdery substance indicates small particles of line worn off by friction.

Damage to internal natural fibers occurs when a line under a strain exceeds 75% of its breaking strength. Although this load is not enough to part the line, it is enough to cause some of the internal fibers to break. Internal fiber damage indicates aging and internal wear. With synthetic line, some of the individual synthetic fibers of the line may break if overloaded. These will be visible on the outer surface of the line.

Chafing is wear that affects the outer surface of a line, caused by the friction of the line rubbing against any surface. To check for chafing, the outer surface of the line should be visually inspected for frayed threads and broken or flattened strands. With synthetic line, chafing can also cause hardening and fusing of the outer layer.

A kink (see Figure 2-2) is a twist or curl caused when the line doubles back on itself. A line with a kink in it should never be placed under strain. The tension will put a permanent distortion in the line. All kinks should be removed before using a line.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-2 — Line with a Kink]

A cockle (or hockle) is actually a kink in an inner yarn that forces the yarns to the surface. Cockles can be corrected by stretching the line and twisting the free end to restore the original lay. A cockle can reduce line strength by as much as a third. Braided line will not kink or cockle.

Cutting damage found on line is similar to chafing, but occurs when the line rubs against a sharp edge rather than a rough surface. This will give the appearance as if the line was cut with a knife. Cutting damage to yarns and threads will greatly reduce the effectiveness of the line and can cause failure under strain.

Signs that a line was overloaded are elongation and hardness. Line stretched to the point where it will not come back has a decreased diameter. To determine this, the crewmember should place the line under slight tension and measure the circumference of a reduced area and of a normal area. If the circumference is reduced by five percent or more, the line should be replaced. Another indication of synthetic line overloading is hardness to the touch. This can be noticed while gently squeezing the line. Overloaded line shall not be used. A line under strain is dangerous. If it parts, it will do so with a lot of force, depending on the size and type of line, and how much strain it is under when it parts. As a general rule, when a line is under stress, it is important to always keep an eye on it. Standing in line with the strain may cause serious injury if the line parts and snaps back. DO NOT stand directly behind a line that is under strain! If the line were to part, it could snap back and cause injury.

Rust stains, extending into the cross-section of natural fiber and nylon fiber yarns can lower line strength as much as 40%. Foreign materials (sand, dirt, paint chips, etc.) can get lodged inside the fibers of a line. Once inside the line and under stain, these materials can cause abrasive damage to the line. Care should be taken to cover up lines to prevent foreign materials from entering if they are stowed or in use near work areas.

Prior to each use, all eye splices should be inspected on working lines (towline, anchor rode, mooring lines, etc.). Crewmembers should pay particular attention to the area of the line that is tucked back in on itself, ensuring there are no “flat spots” or areas where the inner core has slipped away leaving only the outer cover. The entire eye should be inspected for chafing and cuts (see Section C of this Chapter for illustrations).

Proper use and care will significantly extend the lifetime of the lines used. Everyone is responsible for protecting lines from damage. Along with good inspections, some of the ways to accomplish this are proper breakout, stowage, and care. Never permanently cover natural fiber line with anything that will prevent the evaporation of moisture.

To uncoil natural fiber laid line, perform the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-3 — Opening a New Coil of Line]

The recommended method for unreeling synthetic fiber lines is to:

(01) Insert a pipe through the center and hang the reel off the deck, (02) Draw the line from the lower reel surface.

Twisted fiber lines must not be “thrown” off the reel, as this will cause tangles and kinks. It is recommended that three-strand synthetic lines be faked down on deck and allowed to relax for twenty-four hours. Lengths less than 50 feet will relax in one hour when laid out straight. Fake down double-braided line in figure eight patterns (Figure 2-4).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-4 — Line Faked Down]

While there is nothing that can be done to restore bad line, precautions can be taken to extend the life of lines.

Lines should be kept free from grit or dirt. Gritty material can work down into the fibers while a line is relaxed. Under tension, the movement of the grit will act as an abrasive and will cause serious damage to the fibers.

Chafing gear can be made of old hoses, leather, or heavy canvas. It is used to protect short pieces of line where they run over taff rails, chocks, or other surfaces (Figure 2-5).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-5 — Chafing Gear]

Bitts, cleats, and chock surfaces should be kept smooth to reduce line abrasion.

Crewmembers should ensure that water does not freeze on lines and that any ice which accumulates is removed. Ice is abrasive and can cut fibers.

Crewmembers should avoid walking on, placing loads on, dragging loads over, or in other ways crushing or pinching a line.

Bending under a load causes internal abrasion between the strands of the line. If a line has to go around something, a fair lead should be used. A fair lead is any hole, bullnose, lizard, suitably placed roller, sheave, etc., serving to guide or lead a rope in a desired direction. It is important to remember that if a fair lead is not used, the bigger the bend, the less the abrasive effect.

The practices that should be avoided or observed in the maintenance of natural fiber line are as follows:

Most of the practices in the maintenance of natural fiber line are the same for synthetic fiber line. However, the differences are as follows:

(01) Nylon is not subject to mildew, and it may and should be scrubbed if it becomes slippery because of oil or grease. Spots may be removed by cleaning with a 10% solution of mild detergent/degreaser and water, (02) Synthetic line stretches when put under a load.

To prevent the deteriorating effects of sunlight, chemicals, paints, soaps, and linseed or cottonseed oils, lines should be stored to prevent contact with harmful items or conditions.

Synthetic fiber lines are not as susceptible to the effects of moisture as natural fiber lines. They are, however, affected by all of the other conditions and materials that will hurt line. The boat’s towline and other synthetic lines should be kept covered or stored in a dark area, when not in use. Synthetic line should not be constantly coiled in the same direction, as doing this tends to tighten the twist. Three-strand synthetic line is often coiled clockwise to reduce a natural tendency to tighten up. It can be coiled in figure eights to avoid kinks when paying out (Figure 2-6).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-6 — Figure Eight Coils]

See applicable boat operators handbook for location and procedures for towline stowage.

The most common method of stowing the extra line on deck or on the dock after making fast to a cleat is to coil it.

Flemishing a line consists of coiling a line against the deck ensures a neat and clean line without it being fouled. It is good for appearance as well for inspections providing a good seaman-like appearance. (Figure 2-7).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-7 — Flemishing a Line]

Estimating the length of a line can be a useful skill. One method of doing so is as follows:

The length of line from one hand to the other, across the chest, will be roughly six feet (one fathom). Actually, this distance will be closer to the person’s height, but this measure is close enough for a rough and quick estimate of line needed. If more line is needed, the process should be repeated keeping the first hand in place on the line as a marker until the length of line required has been measured off. For example, if 36 feet of line is needed, the procedure should be repeated six times.

Knots are used for pulling, holding, lifting, and lowering. When using line for these purposes, it is often necessary to join two or more lines together. Knots and bends are used for temporary joining, and splices provide a permanent joining. In either case, the breaking strength of the joined line is normally less than the breaking strength of the separated lines. The weakest point in a line is the knot or splice. They can reduce the breaking strength of a line by as much as 50 to 60 percent. A splice, however, is stronger than a knot.

Knots are the intertwining of the parts of one or more lines to secure the lines to themselves, each other (bends), or other objects (hitches). Because knots decrease the strength of the line, they should always be treated as temporary. If something permanent is needed, a splice or seizing can be used.

In making knots and splices, the crewmember must know the names for the parts of a line and the basic turns employed. Refer to Figure 2-8 and Figure 2-9 for an examples.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-8 — Basic Parts and Loops]

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-9 — Bight and Turns]

Good knots are easy to tie, easy to untie, and hold well. A good knot will not untie itself. In sailing vernacular, a knot is used to tie a line back upon itself, a bend used to secure two lines together, and a hitch is used to tie a line to a ring, rail or spar. The knots listed below are those most commonly used in boat operations. Crewmembers should learn to tie them well, for the time may come when the skill to do so could decide the outcome of a mission.

The bowline is a versatile knot and can be used anytime a temporary eye is needed in the end of a line. It also works for tying two lines securely together, though there are better knots for this. An advantage of bowlines is that they do not slip or jam easily. Refer to Figure 2-10 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-10 — Bowline]

Hitches are used for temporarily securing a line to objects such as a ring or eye. One of their advantages is their ease in untying. The half hitch is the smallest and simplest hitch. It should be tied only to objects having a right- hand pull. Since a single half hitch may slip easily, care should be taken in cases where it will encounter stress. Refer to Figure 2-11 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-11 — Half Hitch]

To reinforce or strengthen a single half hitch, the line can be tied once more. Two half hitches make a more reliable knot than a single half hitch and can be used to make the ends of a line fast around its own standing part. A round turn or two, secured with a couple of half hitches, is a quick way to secure a line to a pole or spar. Two half hitches are needed to secure a line at an angle where it might slide vertically or horizontally. Refer to Figure 2-12 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-12 — Two Half Hitches]

A rolling hitch is used to attach one line to another, where the second line is under a strain and cannot be bent. Refer to Figure 2-13 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-13 — Rolling Hitch]

A clove hitch is preferred for securing a heaving line to a towline. It is the best all-around knot for securing a line to a ring or spar. Correctly tied, a clove hitch will not jam or loosen. However, if it is not tied tight enough, it may work itself out. Reinforcing it with a half hitch will prevent this from happening. Refer to Figure 2-14 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-14 — Clove Hitch]

A slip clove hitch should be used in lieu of a clove hitch when a quick release is required. It should be tied in the same manner as the clove hitch but finish it with a bight to allow for quick release (see Figure 2-15). It is sometimes used for stowing lines and fenders. It should not be used when working with the line.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-15 — Slip Clove Hitch]

Timber hitches are used to secure a line to logs, spars, planks or other rough- surfaced material, but should not be used on pipes or other metal objects. Refer to Figure 2-16 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-16 — Timber Hitch]

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-17 — Timber Hitch with Two Half Hitches]

Lines can be lengthened by bending one to another using a becket bend. It is the best knot for connecting a line to an eye splice in another line. It can be readily taken apart even after being under a load. Single becket bends are used to join line of the same size or nearly the same size. It is intended to be temporary. Refer to Figure 2-18 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-18 — Single Becket Bend/Sheet Bend]

The double becket bend works for joining lines of unequal size. It is tied in the same manner as the single becket bend except for the following variation in step 4 above: Pass line “b” around and under its standing part twice (see Figure 2-19).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-19 — Double Becket Bend/Sheet Bend]

Called a square knot by Boy Scouts, the reef knot is one of the most commonly used knots in marlinespike seamanship. Reef knots are primarily used to join two lines of equal size and similar material. Caution should be used if the line is going to be under heavy strain since the reef knot can jam badly and become difficult to untie afterwards. Reef knots are best used to finish securing laces (canvas cover, awning, sail to a gaff, etc.), temporary whippings, and other small stuff. Refer to Figure 2-20 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-20 — Reef Knot (Square Knot)]

Because some lines, such as towlines, are too heavy and awkward to throw any distance, a smaller line called a “heaving line” which is weighted at one end is used to pass the towline to a disabled vessel. Most heaving lines today are between 75 and 100 feet long and use a softball sized rubber ball at the end to provide the additional weight needed during the throw. Another option would be to tie a monkey’s fist at one end of the heaving line. Scrap pieces of line, leather, or cloth can be used instead to provide additional weight needed to throw the heaving line. Refer to Figure 2-21 while performing the following procedures:

[Lettered on the illustration: COMPLETE MONKEY FIST]

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-21 — Monkey’s Fist]

A figure eight knot is an overhand knot with an extra twist. It will prevent the end of a line from feeding through a block or fairlead when loads are involved. It is also easier to untie and does not jam as hard as the over hand knot (see Figure 2-22).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-22 — Figure Eight Knot]

A crown knot may be used to prevent an unwhipped line from unlaying. Refer to Figure 2-23 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-23 — Crown Knot]

A Surgeon’s Knot joins lines of equal or unequal diameters and lines of different materials. When properly tied, the Surgeon’s Knot approaches 100- percent line strength. It must be tightened by pulling on all four strands to properly seat the knot. Refer to Figure 2-24 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-24 — Surgeon’s Knot]

Splices form a more permanent joining of two lines or two parts of a line. Splicing can be done with many different styles of line including three-strand and doubled-braided. Three-strand lines are unlayed and woven back into themselves or into another line. Double-braided lines go through a series of core/cover removals and tucks in order to complete the splice. Splices are preferred over knots since they allow the line to retain more of its original working strength. The type of splice used depends on the type of joint and the type of line. Eye, back, and short splices will be illustrated for plain laid three- strand line and eye and short (end-for-end) splices will be illustrated for double-braided nylon.

The eye splice makes a permanent loop (the eye) in the end of a line. Refer to Figure 2-25 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-25 — Three-Stranded Eye Splice]

A back splice is commonly used to finish off the end of a line. It can be used on the ends of fender lines. Care should be used when selecting a back splice to finish off a line. The splice will increase the diameter of the line that may cause it to jam or foul when running through a block or deck fitting. If the line must be able to run free, a permanent whipping (see Figure 2-29) on the end is preferred to prevent unraveling. Crewmembers should starting with unlaying the strands at the end, then bending them back on the line, and then interweaving them back through the strands of the standing part. Refer to Figure 2-26 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-26 — Back Splice (Three-Strand)]

to note that a short splice is never used in a line that must pass over a pulley or sheave. Refer to Figure 2-27 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-27 — Short Splice]

Splicing a double-braided line entails pulling the core out of the cover and then putting the line back together to make the splice. The basic principle for putting it back together is:

(01) The cover goes into the core, (02) Then the core goes back into the cover.

Splicing a double-braided line requires the use of special equipment. The “pusher” and “fid” are especially designed to splice a certain size of line. The correct measurements supplied by the manufacturer must be used before starting the splice. One mistake in a measurement can result in an improper and dangerous splice. Utilize instructions from the manufacturer(hard copy or website) for splicing a double-braided line.

The end of a cut line will unravel and fray if not secured with a whipping or back splice. Whippings may be permanent or temporary.

Sometimes called the common whipping, temporary whippings make temporary repairs and secure strands of lines while splicing. They are not very durable and unravel easily if snagged. Whippings are normally made using sail twine, although almost any small stuff will do. Refer to Figure 2-28 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-28 — Temporary Whipping]

Permanent whippings are made to last. To make one, several wraps are made around the line using shot line or waxed nylon. The ends of the whipping line are then sewn across the whipping and through the line. Refer to Figure 2-29 while performing the following procedures:

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-29 — Permanent Whipping]

A hook is moused to keep slings and straps from slipping out or off the hooks. This is accomplished by either mechanical means or by seizing the hook, using seizing wire or small stuff, from opposite sides (Figure 2-30).

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-30 — Mousing a Hook]

Shackles are moused to prevent the pin from backing out. This is usually done on screw-pin shackles. Mousing is accomplished by taking several turns, using seizing wire or small stuff, through the pin eye and around the shackle itself in such a way so the pin cannot turn (Figure 2-31).

NOTE

A cable tie (zip tie) can be used as a quick temporary way to mouse a shackle for anchoring and towing.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-31 — Mousing a Shackle]

Deck fittings are attachments or securing points for lines. They permit easy handling and reduce wear and friction on lines. There are three basic types of deck fittings:

(01) Bitts, (02) Cleats, (03) Chocks.

Several types of deck fittings are shown in Figure 2-32.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-32 — Types of Deck Fittings]

Cleats may be found on the decks next to the gunwales on each side of a boat used with bitts and cleats to help prevent chafing of the line. The chock provides a smooth surface for the line to run over or through. Because of the difference in the structural design of nonstandard boats, the strength of their deck fittings will vary widely.

The size of the deck hardware depends on the size of line to be used for mooring, docking and towing. Cleats are sized by length, and the rule of thumb is the line should be 116" in diameter for each inch of cleat (38" line = 6" cleat, ½" line = 8" cleat.

All deck hardware that is used for towing should have backing plates to distribute the load over a wide area (Figure 2-33). The backing plate can be made of pressure treated hardwood or exterior grade plywood, at least twice as thick as the largest bolt diameter. Bolts, not screws should be used. A flat washer and a lock washer must be used with the bolt. The flat washer is three times the bolt diameter. If metal is used, the thickness should be at least the same as the bolt diameter. The use of aluminum is not recommended.

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-33 — Backing Plate]

The following procedures describe how to secure a line to paired bitts (Figure 2-34):

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-34 — Securing a Line to Paired Bitt]

A single bitt is a post on the forward or aft deck of a boat. It is used as a cleat or tow bitt. The following procedures describe how to secure a line to a Single Bitt (see Figure 2-35):

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-35 — Securing a Line to a Single Bitt]

The following procedures describe how to secure a line to a standard cleat (Figure 2-36):

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-36 — Securing a Line to a Cleat]

The figure does not show extra figure eights.

The following procedures describe how to temporarly secure a dock line to a cleat (see Figure 2-37):

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-37 — Securing a Dock Line to a Cleat]

When two lines with eye splices are placed on a bollard, it may not be possible to remove the bottom line until the top line is removed. By dipping the eye, both lines can be placed for easy removal. The following procedures describe how to dip the eye (see Figure 2-38):

[Illustration in the handbook: Figure 2-38 — Dipping the Eye]

The towline is the hardest worked line on a boat. When in use, it can carry a tremendous strain and is a possible danger to anyone working near it. Boats have different styles of tow bitts. Towlines should aways be secured (made up) using one complete round turn and three figure eights regardless of the style of bitt. Towlines are secured in this method so they can be easly and safely adjusted or cast off in an emergency. Additional information on the use of towlines is provided in Reference (b).